Pierpaolo Piccioli Advocates Women's Liberation with Fluid Fashion Line.

While fresh talent at Dior and Chanel sparked major attention during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the first show from Balenciaga that utterly dominated the public's attention. The show featured a stunning front-row presence: Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, making her return to the European scene in a trio of years.

On Saturday night in the French capital, the glamour and excitement of other major houses – plus the notable attendee – were all outshone with the dramatic effect of the Balenciaga event.

Meghan, Duchess of Sussex added immense razzle-dazzle to the fashion event.

Until that moment, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been rather peaceful. This esteemed brand is a venerated institution, and the designer is globally acclaimed as a master of his craft. Furthermore, he is cherished for his reputation as the nicest man in fashion. Many assumed that provocative runway antics had exited the Balenciaga building with the move of provocateur designer Demna to another luxury house. But, sometimes the most gentle individuals spring a few shocks, and the presence of a duchess significantly amplified the media frenzy.

The designer considers himself an architect, creating silhouettes that do not contact the body.

Intriguingly, the main idea of Piccioli’s “manifesto”, as he detailed it backstage, was female emancipation. His initial inspiration was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a shape that stands away from the body, avoiding emphasis on nor restricting a woman’s curves. The designer explained that this style was a bold statement of a changing spirit of the times that was starting to transition from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the liberation of the 1960s. The idea centered on advancement for females. It freed women from the constraints of clothing that sit on their body and define them by their shape. That garment gave women the chance to exist unencumbered.”

The brand's legendary shapes were featured in the show, such as this enveloping coat.

Clothes that hold their form are fundamental to the Balenciaga's philosophy. The designer likened this design methodology to being an structural designer: creating structures that do not touch the body, while always thinking about the people who will inhabit and move within them. The founder was obsessed with the human form and with textiles, and with a key factor – the gap separating them.”

The opening look was a fresh take of the sack dress, lengthened to an longline silhouette, worn with elegant gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that served as a direct nod to the apocalypse-chic of Balenciaga’s Demna era.

The designer, who at 58 sports strings of beads and charms and exudes an calm, bohemian vibe, is not interested in seeing design as a personal rivalry. He believes that it is “cooler” for fashion artists to respect each other’s skills. Piccioli noted that he was hoping for a “reconciliation” between the couture roots of the brand, and its more modern casual influences. Classic designs from the house were prominently featured in the show: a voluminous outerwear piece, this time in a bold green hue, and a flared dress in a intense purple color.

The archetype of Parisian style has become a modern money-spinner. The American designer is an American man, but he speaks this fashion language fluently. Rider had a professional relationship with the renowned designer during her time leading the brand, and then devoted a half-decade elevating Polo Ralph Lauren into a flagship for accessible taste. Currently leading Céline, he is infusing the inclusive spirit of his previous work to Parisian style. So there were timeless coats, natural accessories, and elegant scarves tied around bags – all the classic elements of the local style – presented in cheerful tones, with an positive transatlantic vibe. “Céline isn’t a mean brand, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” Rider stated post-presentation. The goal is for everyone feels desirable in Celine. By choosing these pieces, you may not have the strangest thing, but you have the finest outerwear, and you have the attitude to wear it.”